Welcome to Fashion Week. TrendCue is super excited to introduce you to four young designers whose work we have our eye on - and you may want to also.
Toronto-based Vejas Kruszewski creates streetwear which blends the familiar with the unexpected. One of Vogue’s list of 14 new designers, Vejas’ started posting images of his work on Tumblr. His androgynous, gender-fluid apparel and bags are at once familiar and modern. Vejas’ originality won him a special LVMH Prize in June 2016—150K Euros and mentorship. A self-taught designer with no formal schooling Vejas’ first full collection was presented in Fall 2015. Striking color combinations and interpretations of classic garments, detailed grommets, snap closures, stitching and bold shapes offer something entirely new. In just a few seasons Vejas’ style palette has a signature drawing inspiration from many themes including stunt gear, varsity jackets, old-school snap closure warm up suits and early aviation. His iterations manage to be both au courant and retro at once.
Paper Magazine dubbed Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, “ . . .perhaps the most confrontational designer working in New York at the moment.” It’s no surprise given the designer’s penchant to put difficult subjects into his collections including the Black Lives Matter movement and Ota Benga, a Congolese man in captivity in a Bronx Zoo exhibit in 1906 in the Spring 2016 show. For his Fall 2016 show, he collaborated with Erykah Badu who styled the collection addressing depression and mental health. A show stand-out were buttons emblazoned with the names of drugs including Molly and Prozac on garments and hats. Pyer Moss, based in New York City and founded in 2014, has continued to turn out edgy, provocative streetwear in the form of oversized coats, cropped leggings, leather, shearling and t-shirts with a classic yet bold feel. Subdued colors with splashes of seem like a gentle nod to 1980’s New York. While Pyer Moss may be considered courageous for bringing conversation which transcends style to his work, the spirited designs have our attention.
London-based AV Robertson, designed by Amie Victoria Robertson, uses embroidery and flowers with a liberal hand for a striking result. The details are evocative and sophisticated - not simply girly flourishes. After graduating from Central Saint Martins with a show highlighting her talent for striking embellishments, internships at Christian Dior Couture and Alexander Wang followed. Marc Jacobs, for whom she was a design assistant before starting her collection, attended her Fall 2016 show in a front row seat. Beads, texture, and jewel tones paired with stripes blend luxury, elegance and show-stopping embellishment. It’s as if Amie took power suits, boudoir attire and kimonos and blended them to create something inspired and new yet familiar, inviting and wearable. We cannot wait to see next season’s collection!
In Paris, Glenn Martens, Creative Director of Y/Project, founded in 2010, was also a finalist for this year’s LVMH Prize. Y/Project manages to bring what W termed, “. . . a postmodern mash-up of the romantic, the smartly tailored, and the streetwise—often in a single look.” Each collection to date features pieces which are quite varied yet work well together in concert. Rihanna is a fan. What originally began as a men’s label morphed into women’s wear highlighting a panoply of styles and periods which Martens takes to the edge. The juxtaposition of textured fabrics fused with inspiration varying from streets to ateliers are awesome. What Martens does is brilliant and seems effortless: Paris modern meets super-heroine meets film siren. Cutouts, leather, glen plaid and a lot of lace and velvet invite playful variety both on the runway and on the woman who wears Y/Project’s clothing.
Hope you are enjoying Fashion Week everyone!